BRAZIL: IGUAZU NATIONAL PARK, 15-19th July 1996
I visited Iguazu with Robin Brace prior to Bolivia, one reason being that the cheapest route to Bolivia was on Aerolineas via Buenos Aires and so the only extra cost involved was the internal flight to Puerto Iguazu, which was half price ($150 return) having flown internationally with Aerolineas.
The falls are very spectacular and should be seen from both sides. Birding is difficult on the Brazilian side as you cannot readily get permission to do the Poco Peto trail, the best trail, and so most time should be spent in Argentina.
Wheatley’s Where to watch birds in South America covers the area reasonably but note the following updates:-
The boardwalk from Puerto Canoas has been partly washed away so you have to go by boat to see the “Devil’s Mouth” fall - I could not find Black-collared Swallows there.
The trail beyond the campsite there is out of bounds, unless accompanied by a ranger, but is still said to be the best chance for Black-fronted Piping-Guan, along with the river islands by the road to Puerto Canoas - I dipped.
The best trails are Sendero Macuco and Sendero El Timbo (south of the ranger’s house/ station). The latter is the best site for Helmeted Woodpecker, which is no longer found on the Poco Peto trail, along with a trail to the Radio Mast from the main road a few km east of Puerto Iguazu. Notable misses were Solitary Tinamou, Rusty-barred Owl and Spotted Bamboowren (both near El Timbo) and Bay-ringed Tyrannulet.
The only accessible trails on the Brazilian side are a short one opposite Macuco Safaris, with lots of bamboo (good for Large-headed Flatbill and Black-billed Scythebill), and one starting at the observation tower near the big house at the start of Poco Peto, running nearly parallel to the main road, to a laguna. The only notable bird I saw this side (only) was Sao Paulo Tyrannulet.
There are several other good sites within a few hours drive of the Park, eg for Tawny-browed Owl, Silky-tailed Nightjar, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail and Green-chinned Euphonia, but all are difficult to reach without a hire-car. An alternative is to hire Miguel Castelino, a good but expensive local tour guide (Apartado Postal 22, 3370 Iguazu, Argentina, tel/ fax 0757 20157).
ITINERARY
July 15 15.00-18.45 Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Night at Puerto Iguazu
16 06.40 bus to falls: marsh hide, Sendero Macuco, SenderoYacaratia, Falls trail. 18.45 bus to Puerto Iguazu.
17 06.30 taxi to km13 in Brazil, bus to NP entrance, track to campsite as not allowed in Park till 08.30 when took bus to falls. After site-seeing, walked back 3-4km to trail opposite Macuco Safaris, birded 11.30-13.30. No bus, so taxi to NP/police offices; Sendero Poco Peto 14.30-17.00. 17.45 bus to border, then walk and lift to Pto Iguazu.
18 06.40 bus to falls, walk to Pueto Canoas (first bus 08.00), road to El Timbo ranger station, Sendero El Timbo, back to Pto Canoas, to campsite and back. 17.45 bus to falls and on to Pto Iguazu.
19 06.40 bus to falls: Sendero Macuco, falls trail, bus to Pto Canoas, trail beyond campsite, Sendero El Timbo till dusk, walked to Pto Canoas - no bus so walked to NP entrance. 19.40 bus to Pto Iguazu.
20 06.30 bus to Cuidad Este, Paraguay, arriving 06.30 with 1 hour time difference.
SYSTEMATIC LIST
ET Sendero El Timbo, MS Macuco Safari trail, PC Puerto Canoas, PP Sendero Poco Peto, SM Sendero Macuco, SY Sendero Yacaratia. Bold indicates new species for JH
Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus Heard SM
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Common
Anhinga Anhinga Anhinga 1 at PC
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Flocks roosting near the falls
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis Fairly common
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Abundant
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common
King Vulture Sarcorhamphus papa 1 over MS
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Fairly common
Crested Caracara Caracara plancus Only 1
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima A few
Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur Heard near ET
American Kestrel Falco sparverius A few
Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris Fairly common
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail Aramides saracura 1 waterfall trail, 2 road to PC
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Several
Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro Common
Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis A few
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti At least 1 near falls in Brazil
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Fairly common
Violaceous Quail-Dove Geotrygon violacea 1 ET
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana 1 twice ET
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Common
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis 4 ET, 3 waterfall trail
Pileated Parrot Pionopsitta pileata 4 over ET
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Several
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Common
Red-spectacled Parrot Amazona pretrei 1 perched near visitor centre
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Fairly common
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani A few
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Several
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard near visitor centre
Great Dusky Swift Cyseloides senex Abundant around falls in evening
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis 1 ET
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus A few
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura Fairly common
Rusty-breasted Nunlet Nonnula rubecula 1 SM
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis Common
Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris A few
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus Fairly common
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco Common
Ochre-collared Piculet Picumnus temminckii Fairly common, eg on SM, but heard more than seen
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons 2 SY
White-spotted Woodpecker Veniliornis spilogaster Several;
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestres 1 near marsh
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens 1 SM
Helmeted Woodpecker Dryocopus galeatus 1 in flight ET
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Fairly common
Robust Woodpecker Campephilus robustus 2 SM
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Fairly common
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis A few
Planalto Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes platyrostris 1 ET
Lesser Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes fuscus 1 SY
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus 1 visitor centre
Rufous-capped Spinetail Synallaxis ruficapilla Fairly common
Canebrake Groundcreeper Clibanornis dendrocolaptoides 1 halfway along SM
Ochre-breasted Foliage-glner Philydor lichtensteini Common
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus 2 singles SM
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus A few
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans 2 singles
Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus 1 ET, heard ET and SY
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Fairly common
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Common
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus A few
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Several, mainly in Brazil
Short-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza campanisona 1 SM, heard SM,ET and PC
Variegated Antpitta Grallaria varia Heard SM
Mouse-colored Tapaculo Scytalopus speluncae Heard ET
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus Heard ET
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Common
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Heard SM
Wing-barred Manakin Piprites chloris 1 ET
Gray-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris 1
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus A few
Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrnt Hemitriccus diops Fairly common
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum plumbeiceps Several
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi Fairly commonly heard, seen SM
Southern Beardless-Tyrannlt Camptostoma obsoletum 1 ET
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola 2ET, 3 MS
Gray Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps 1 SM
Southern Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes eximius Singles ET and SM
Sao Paulo Tyrannulet Phylloscartes paulistus 1 PP
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis Heard ET
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens 2
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus 1 ET
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus 2
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator Common
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarhynchus pitangua Heard SM
Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata A few, eg on SY
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis 1+ Puerto Iguazu
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Very common
Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis 1 SM
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus Singles SM and ET
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus 2 MS
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana 1 ET
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor Common
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops Very common
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas 2 visitor centre
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis A few
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis A few
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris A few
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas Commonm
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus 1 start of SM
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis 3
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Several
Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher Polioptila lactea A few, eg on ET
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer Fairly common, eg at PC
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca A few in Brazil
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Common
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus Very common
White-rimmed Warbler Basileuterus leucoblepharus 1 heard PC
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis 1 in Brazil
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola A few
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum Fairly common
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana Fairly common
Chestnut-headed Tanager Pyrrhocoma ruficeps Several ET
Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida 1
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira Fairly common
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus A few
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus a few
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops Common
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Fairly common
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota A few
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Fairly common
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia Euphonia pectoralis A few
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea Fairly common
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon Singles ET and SM
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana Common
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus Several
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Fairly common
Blackish-blue Seedeater Amaurospiza moesta Singles ET and SM
Black-throated Grosbeak Pitylus fuliginosus A few
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis 2
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Common
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis 1
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