The town of Riberalta in the far north of Bolivia lies at the confluence of the rivers Beni and Madre de Dios, at the boundary on Pando and Beni, some 80km from the border with Brazil. It is easily reached by air from La Paz or Trinidad, although flights are not daily. Sjoerd Mayer put the area on the ornithological map by finding the rare Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant and Spotted Antpitta Hylopezus macularius, previously known only from northern Pando, Peru and Brazil. He also discovered that the latter sings differently from the better known population, warranting specific status as H. auricularis, which he named Masked Antpitta. From July 15 - 20 I birded the area with Robin Brace and Paul St Pierre, and following Sjoerd’s directions, saw both species well. We had missed Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant in April 96 at Noel Kempff Mercado NP, its main known stronghold – perhaps it is a migrant as we found it easily here.
We flew from La Paz with TAM, the military airline, booked the previous day and at $103, cheaper than the two civil airlines. It stopped on the way at Cobija in Pando, surrounded by forest – we should have had a couple of days there had we realised. In Riberalta we walked the few 100m from the termainal to the basic but comfortable Residencial Los Reyes, $4 per person in a 3-man room. Note that there is no bank at La Paz airport and it is very difficult to change travellers cheques in Riberalta.
There are three sites to visit:-
HAMBURGO
This low-lying area of patchy riverine forest and scrub between the town and the Rio Beni, is a 30min walk or 10min motorbike ride away, past the brick-making plants on the western edge of town. As well as the Antpitta, it holds Johannis’ and Spotted Tody-Tyrants, Ashy-headed Greenlet and Chestnut (Purus) Jacamar.
ANTOFAGASTA
A left turn down a sandy track off the main Guayaramerin road immediately after the disused check-point at the edge of town, accessed by motorbike (taxi), goes to the small village of Antofagasta. Beyond there, trails lead through Amazonian forest to a small river. We saw White-browed Hawk, Leaden and Streaked Antwrens, Rufous-tailed Flatbill and Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin. There are doubtless many other good species to be found here - eg I believe I briefly saw Amazonian Royal Flycatcher O.(coronatus) coronatus.
KM 36
There are occasional km marker posts along the Guayaramerin road but the 36km post is difficult to see. On the bus it is reached some 30 mins after the military camp / checkpoint – a wide track on the right, sign- posted Quela 2km, goes through mature savanna of San Lorenzo de Pampas. Four pairs of Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrants were present in the grassland near the first 2 km of track, and we also saw 7 White-rumped Tanagers, 10 White-bellied Parrots and 2 Horned Sungems, but no Cock-tailed Tyrant which might be expected. Sjoerd was told that there was extensive undisturbed savanna along the road to Santa Rosa, 1-2 hrs away by motorbike.
July 15 La Paz – Cobija - Riberalta, 09.00 – 12.00. Hotel and airline office. 16.30-18.00 Hamburgo.
July 16 Guayaramerin bus to Km 36, 06.35-07.30. Bird savanna till 12.00. Hour wait for lift back, in a pick-up. Late afternoon at Hamburgo – gripping views of Antpitta.
July 17 Motorbikes to Antofagasta 06.05-07.00. Bird trail to river and along river till 11.00. Walk back to village for bike pick-up at 12.00. Hamburgo late afternoon, walked back in dark.
July 18 Bikes to Antofagasta 05.45, birded till 13.00. Afternoon at Hamburgo lake – gripped off on Chestnut Jacamar.
July 19 Hamburgo plus lake 06.15-12.00. Siesta at hotel then back to Hamburgo late afternoon – still no Jacamar.
July 20 Hamburgo 06.30-08.30. To airport at 09.00 for 10.00 LAB flight to Trinidad ($67), departing at 12.30 with stop at Guayaramerin on Brazilian border.
Taxonomy and names follow Birds of the World: A Checklist by JF Clements (1991 + updates). A cross means the species was seen and “H” that it was only heard.
| LOCALITY | Hamburgo | Antofagasta | Km 36 |
Crypturellus soui | LITTLE TINAMOU |
| x |
|
Crypturellus undulatus | UNDULATED TINAMOU | H | H |
|
Crypturellus parvirostris | SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU |
|
| x |
Rhynchotus rufescens | RED-WINGED TINAMOU |
|
| x |
Anhinga anhinga | ANHINGA | x |
|
|
Chauna torquata | SOUTHERN SCREAMER | x |
|
|
Cairina moschata | MUSCOVY DUCK |
| x |
|
Syrigma sibilatrix | WHISTLING HERON |
|
| x |
Ardea cocoi | COCOI HERON | x |
|
|
Casmerodius albus | GREAT EGRET | x |
|
|
Bubulcus ibis | CATTLE EGRET | x |
|
|
Butorides striatus | STRIATED HERON | x | x |
|
Mesembrinibis cayennensis | GREEN IBIS |
| H |
|
Mycteria americana | WOOD STORK |
| x |
|
Coragyps atratus | BLACK VULTURE | x | x |
|
Cathartes aura | TURKEY VULTURE | x | x |
|
Cathartes burrovianus | LESSSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE | x |
|
|
Cathartes melambrotus | GREATER YELLW-HEADED VULTURE |
| x |
|
Sarcorhamphus papa | KING VULTURE |
| x |
|
Elanoides forficatus | SWALLOW-TAILED KITE |
| x |
|
Rostrhamus sociabilis | SNAIL KITE | x |
|
|
Ictinia plumbea | PLUMBEOUS KITE | x |
|
|
Leucopternis schistacea | SLATE-COLOURED HAWK | x |
|
|
Leucopternis kuhli | WHITE-BROWED HAWK |
| x |
|
Buteogallus urubitinga | GREAT BLACK-HAWK | x |
|
|
Busarellus nigricollis | BLACK-COLLARED HAWK | x |
|
|
Buteo magnirostris | ROADSIDE HAWK | x | x | x |
Falco femoralis | APLOMADO FALCON |
|
| x |
Falco rufigularis | BAT FALCON |
| x |
|
Odontophorus stellatus | STARRED WOOD-QUAIL |
| H |
|
Micropygia schomburgkii | OCELLATED CRAKE |
|
| H |
Aramides cajanea | GREY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL | x |
|
|
Jacana jacana | WATTLED JACANA | x |
|
|
Vanellus chilensis | SOUTHERN LAPWING | x |
|
|
Phaetusa simplex | LARGE-BILLED TERN | x |
|
|
Sterna superciliaris | YELLOW-BILLED TERN | x |
|
|
Columba speciosa | SCALED PIGEON |
| x |
|
Columba cayennensis | PALE-VENTED PIGEON | H |
|
|
Columba subvinacea | RUDDY PIGEON | x | x |
|
Columbina talpacoti | RUDDY GROUND-DOVE | x |
|
|
Columbina picui | PICUI GROUND-DOVE | x |
|
|
Claravis pretiosa | BLUE GROUND-DOVE |
| x |
|
Leptotila rufaxilla | GREY-FRONTED DOVE |
| x |
|
Ara macao/ chloropterus | SCARLET/ RED-AND-GREEN MACAW |
| x |
|
Ara severa | CHESTNUT-FRONTED MACAW | x | x | x |
Aratinga leucophthalmus | WHITE-EYED PARAKEET | x |
| x |
Aratinga aurea | PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET |
|
| x |
Forpus xanthopterygius | BLUE-WINGED PARROTLET | x | x |
|
Brotogeris chiriri | YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEET |
| x |
|
Brotogeris sanctithomae | TUI PARAKEET | x |
|
|
Pionites leucogaster | WHITE-BELLIED PARROT |
|
| x |
| LOCALITY | Hamburgo | Antofagasta | Km 36 |
Pionus menstruus | BLUE-HEADED PARROT |
| x |
|
Amazona farinosa | MEALY PARROT |
| x |
|
Piaya cayana | SQUIRREL CUCKOO |
| x |
|
Piaya minuta | LITTLE CUCKOO |
| x |
|
Crotophaga ani | SMOOTH-BILLED ANI | x |
| x |
Guira guira | GUIRA CUCKOO | X |
|
|
Tapera naevia | STRIPED CUCKOO | H |
|
|
Otus choliba | TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL | H |
|
|
Nyctibius griseus | GREY POTOO | H |
|
|
Chordeiles acutipennis | LESSER NIGHTHAWK | x |
|
|
Nyctidromus albicollis | PAURAQUE | x |
|
|
Caprimulgus parvulus | LITTLE NIGHTJAR | H |
|
|
Chaetura brachyura | SHORT-TAILED SWIFT | x |
|
|
Tachornis squamata | FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT | x |
|
|
Phaethornis hispidus | WHITE-BEARDED HERMIT |
| x | x |
Phaethornis ruber | REDDISH HERMIT |
| x |
|
Florisuga mellivora | WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN | x |
|
|
Heliactin cornuta | HORNED SUNGEM |
|
| x |
Trogon melanurus | BLACK-TAILED TROGON |
| x |
|
Trogon viridis | WHITE-TAILED TROGON |
| H |
|
Trogon curucui | BLUE-CROWNED TROGON |
| H |
|
Trogon collaris | COLLARED TROGON |
| x |
|
Trogon violaceus | VIOLACEOUS TROGON |
| H |
|
Ceryle torquata | RINGED KINGFISHER | x |
|
|
Chloroceryle amazona | AMAZON KINGFISHER |
| x |
|
Chloroceryle americana | GREEN KINGFISHER |
| x |
|
Chloroceryle aenea | AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER |
| x |
|
Momotus momota | BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT |
| x |
|
Galbula ruficauda | RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR | x | x |
|
Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus | CHESTNUT JACAMAR (PSP) | x |
|
|
Bucco macrodactylus | CHESTNUT-CAPPED PUFFBIRD |
| x |
|
Nystalus striolatus | STRIOLATED PUFFBIRD |
| x |
|
Monasa nigrifrons | BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD |
| x |
|
Chelidoptera tenebrosa | SWALLOW-WING |
| x |
|
Ramphastos tucanus | RED-BILLED TOUCAN |
| x |
|
Picumnus albosquamatus | WHITE-WEDGED PICULET | x |
|
|
Melanerpes candidus | WHITE WOODPECKER |
|
| x |
Melanerpes cruentatus | YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER |
| x |
|
Venilornis passerinus | LITTLE WOODPECKER |
| x |
|
Piculus rubiginosus | GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER | x |
|
|
Deconychura longicauda | LONG-TAILED WOODCREEPER |
| x |
|
Xiphorhynchus picus | STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER |
| x |
|
Furnarius leucopus | PALE-LEGGED HORNERO |
| x |
|
Furnarius rufus | RUFOUS HORNERO | x |
|
|
Synallaxis gujanensis | PLAIN-CROWNED SPINETAIL | x |
|
|
Hyloctistes subulatus | STRIPED WOOHAUNTER |
| x |
|
Philydor erythrocercus | RUFOUS-RUMPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER |
| H |
|
Xenops rutilans | STREAKED XENOPS |
| x |
|
Taraba major | GREAT ANTSHRIKE | x |
|
|
Thamnophilus doliatus | BARRED ANTSHRIKE | x |
|
|
Thamnophilus aethiops | WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTSHRIKE | x |
|
|
Thamnophulus murinus | MOUSE-COLOURED ANTSHRIKE | x |
|
|
Thamnophilus punctatus | EASTERN SLATY ANTSHRIKE | x |
|
|
Thamnophilus amazonicus | AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE |
| x |
|
Thamnomanes schistogynus | BLUISH-SLATE ANTSHRIKE |
| x |
|
| LOCALITY | Hamburgo | Antofagasta | Km 36 |
Myrmotherula surinamensis | STREAKED ANTREN |
| x |
|
Myrmotherula assimilis | LEADEN ANTWREN |
| x |
|
Cercomacra cinerascens | GREY ANTBIRD | x | H |
|
Cercomacra nigrescens | BLACKISH ANTBIRD | x |
|
|
Myrmoborus leucophrys | WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD | x |
|
|
Hypocnemis cantator | WARBLING ANTBIRD |
| x |
|
Hypocnemoides maculicauda | BAND-TAILED ANTBIRD |
| x |
|
Sclateria naevia | SILVERED ANTBIRD |
| x |
|
Myrmeciza atrothorax | BLACK-THROATED ANTBIRD | x | x |
|
Formicarius analis | BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH |
| H |
|
Hylopezus (macularius) auricularis | MASKED ANTPITTA | x |
|
|
Lipaugus vociferans | SCREAMING PIHA |
| x |
|
Cotinga maynana | PLUM-THROATED COTINGA |
| x |
|
Querula purpurata | PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW |
| x |
|
Neopelma sulphureiventer | SULPHUR-BELLIED TYRANT-MANAKIN |
| x |
|
Elaenia flavogaster | YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA | x |
| x |
Elaenia parvirostris | SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA |
|
| x |
Zimmerius gracilipes | SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET | x |
|
|
Tyrannulus elatus | YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET | x |
|
|
Euscarthmus rufomarginatus | RUFOUS-SIDED PYGMY-TYRANT |
|
| x |
Myiornis ecaudatus | SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT |
| x | x |
Hemmitriccus iohannis | JOHANNIS’ TODY-TYRANT | x |
|
|
Todirostrum maculatum | SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER | x |
|
|
Ramphotrigon ruficauda | RUFOUS-TAILED FLATBILL |
| x |
|
Terenotriccus erythrurus | RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER |
| x |
|
Cnemotriccus fuscatus | FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER | x |
|
|
Contopus cinereus | TROPICAL PEWEE | x | x |
|
Pyrocephalus rubinus | VERMILION FLYCATCHER | x |
| x |
Colonia colonus | LONG-TAILED TYRANT | x |
|
|
Myiarchus tuberculifer | DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER |
| x |
|
Myiarchus tyrannulus | BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER |
|
| x |
Tyrannus melancholicus | TROPICAL KINGBIRD | x | x | x |
Megarhynchus pitangua | BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER | x | x |
|
Myiodynastes maculatus | STREAKED FLYCATCHER |
| x |
|
Myiozetetes similis | SOCIAL FLYCATCHER | x | x |
|
Philohydor lictor | LESSER KISKADEE | x |
|
|
Pitangus sulphuratus | GREAT KISKADEE | x | x | x |
Pachyramphus polychopterus | WHITE-WINGED BECARD |
| x |
|
Vireo olivaceus | RED-EYED VIREO |
| x |
|
Hylophilus pectoralis | ASHY-HEADED GREENLET | x |
|
|
Hylophilus ochraceiceps | LEMON CHESTED GREENLET |
| x |
|
Turdus amaurochalinus | CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH | x | x |
|
Turdus ignobilis | BLACK-BILLED THRUSH | x |
|
|
Turdus hauxwelli | HAUXWELL'S THRUSH | x | x |
|
Campylorhynchus turdinus | THRUSH-LIKE WREN | x |
|
|
Cistothorus platensis | SEDGE WREN |
|
| x |
Thryothorus genibarbis | MOUSTACHED WREN |
| x |
|
Thryothorus guarayanus | FAWN-BREASTED WREN | x |
|
|
Troglodytes aedon | HOUSE WREN | x |
|
|
Tachycineta albiventer | WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW | x |
|
|
Phaeoprogne tapera | BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN | x |
|
|
Stelgidopteryx ruficollis | SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW | x |
|
|
Ammodramus humeralis | GRASSLAND SPARROW |
|
| x |
Ammodramus aurifrons | YELLOW-BROWED SPARROW | x |
|
|
| LOCALITY | Hamburgo | Antofagasta | Km 36 |
Paroaria gularis | RED-CAPPED CARDINAL | x |
| x |
Coereba flaveola | BANANAQUIT |
| x |
|
Conirostrum speciosum | CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL |
| x |
|
Schistoclamys melanopis | BLACK-FACED TANAGER |
|
| x |
Cypsnagra hirundinacea | WHITE-RUMPED TANGER |
|
| x |
Hemithraupis guira | GUIRA TANAGER | x |
|
|
Nemosia pileata | HOODED TANAGER | x |
|
|
Lanio versicolor | WHITE-WINGED SHRIKE-TANAGER |
| x |
|
Tachyphonus luctuosus | WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER |
| x |
|
Tachyphonus cristatus | FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER |
| x |
|
Ramphocelus carbo | SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER | x | x | x |
Thraupis sayaca/ episcopus | SAYACA / BLUE-GREY TANAGER | x | x | x |
Thraupis palmarum | PALM TANAGER | X | x | x |
Tangara mexicana | TURQUOISE TANAGER | X | x |
|
Tangara velia | OPAL-RUMPED TANAGER |
| x |
|
Dacnis lineata | BLACK-FACED DACNIS |
| x |
|
Chlorophanes spiza | GREEN HONEYCREEPER |
| x |
|
Volatinia jacarina | BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT | X |
| x |
Sporophila castaneiventris | CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER |
|
| x |
Saltator maximus | BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR |
| x |
|
Saltator coerulescens | GREYISH SALTATOR | x |
|
|
Cyanocompsa cyanoides | BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK | H | H |
|
Psarocolius decumanus | CRESTED OROPENDOLA |
| x |
|
Cacicus solitarius | SOLITARY CACIQUE | x |
|
|
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